MoxVib

Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, Jan. 23, 2002; 11 a.m. EST

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. EST to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

Springfield, Va.: I really enjoy these chats and your columns, Tom. I'm a little surprised, though, at the venom with which some chatters refer to the Washingtonian and its reviewers. I enjoy both forums, use both sets of reviews, and sometimes agree or disagree with both. Is there a camaraderie or community among food and dining writers? Do you ever correspond or share notes?

I suppose if you ever held a convention, though, you'd all have to wear bags over your heads to preserve your confidentiality!

Tom Sietsema: Frankly, I think the dining public benefits from reviewing competition. And yes, I am pals with several critics from the Washingtonian. But I wouldn’t dream of sharing notes, or my schedule, with anyone outside the Post.

As for anonymity, some restaurant writers think it’s silly to try to retain it on their rounds. I beg to differ. A lot can happen to shape the dining experience when a person is recognized as a critic.

Good morning, everyone.

Washington, D.C.: I'm going to the Kennedy Center on Saturday night and want to go out for a nice dinner after the show -- any recommendations for nice D.C. restaurants that take reservations past 10:30 p.m.? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: That’s a tough one. Washington goes to bed pretty early, as you must know. I’d probably head over to Bistro Francais in Georgetown. It offers a nice atmosphere, a varied French menu -- and doors that stay open til 4 a.m. on the weekend.

Fairfax, Va.: Tom, great answer in Sunday's Ask Tom to the reader who objected to the "wasting of his time" by reviewing restaurants in Virginia & Maryland. He claimed it was the Washington Post and thus should only cover Washington eateries. I guess he would prefer that there be no news covered outside the city limits either.

washingtonpost.com: On Top of Spaghetti (Post, Jan. 20, 2002)

Tom Sietsema: Thanks, Fairfax. I got a lot of feedback on that particular column, mostly supportive.

One reader requested even more restaurant coverage, yet the paper already offers dining news in Weekend, the Food section, and the Weeklies in addition to my space in the Magazine (and two dining guides a year). It’s a huge commitment on the part of the paper, in terms of manpower and resources.

As for me spending a lot of time in the 'burbs, I'd be remiss if I didn't: Sixty percent of the Post’s readership lives outside the District.

E-Guy: When you dine out with friends on your Post account, does your employer cover their tab? If so, can I be your friend?

Tom Sietsema: Yes. The Post pays for everything I order: food, drink, tax and tip (and as many visits as I find necessary to cover the menu).

Be careful what you wish for. The people who dine with me most frequently know there's plenty of inferior cooking out there. It's WORK, for instance, eating bad food an hour away from home on a Saturday night.

Wesley Heights: OK Tom, 'fess up!

When's the last time you had a D.C. street vendor hot dog?

Chili, cheese and kraut ALL for a buck! Can't beat that deal!! A true culinary delight!

Tom Sietsema: Surprise! I bought a hot dog, on the corner of 15th & L, just last week.

My job involves eating high AND low on the food chain.

Arlington, Va.: I am going to Miami to celebrate my 30th birthday. Any dining suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: Azul's! Some of the most exciting food in the city is coming out of Michelle Bernstein's kitchen there. And the setting, overlooking Biscayne Bay, offers a celebratory backdrop. The number: 304-913-8258.

Washington, D.C.: Tom -- need your advice -- badly. have planned special night out with my wife, and want it to be extra romantic. We're going to a show later in the evening, but having dinner first in downtown D.C. Equinox or DC Coast? 1789 is booked (want to take advantage Restaurant Week). Want an atmosphere that's not too stuffy, romantic, etc? Do you have another suggestion by chance?

Thanks a million.

Tom Sietsema: Of the places you list, Equinox would be my pick. Todd Gray’s very personal cooking style impresses me, and the dining room certainly is less noisy than DC Coast. Ask ahead of time for one of the few booths if you can.

Alternatively, you might try Corduroy on 12th & K. Quiet and luscious.

Re: Dining With Friends: Do you do all the ordering? Or do you let your guests choose their meals?

Tom Sietsema: I dictate what everyone eats. Much to their chagrin at times.

Chevy Chase, Md.: Dear Tom,
We live in Chevy Chase, Md. and are planning to meet friends in the Tyson's area for the evening. Where would you suggest that we go for dinner and dancing?

Tom Sietsema: Dinner? Bob Kinkead’s Colvin Run Tavern.

Dancing? You’re on your own.

Washington, D.C.: For the Miami recommendation, I think the area code should be "305" not "304"

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for catching that, Washington.

305 it is.

Fort Belvoir, Va.: Good morning, Tom. We're heading down to Richmond for a day trip this weekend. Any dining recommendations? We'll have kids with us, but they're pretty well-behaved, and will eat anything. Something similar to Evening Star Cafe in Alexandria, or a nice bistro or Italian would be just right. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Millie’s Diner, at 2603 E. Main St., is just what you’re looking for: creative American food in a whimsical setting frequented by twentysomethings, business types and families alike. I’ve had some fine breakfasts and lunches there within the past two years.

Silver Spring, Md.: I realized I better make Valentine's Day dinner plans soon. I'd like to find someplace romantic and, preferably, historic, in downtown D.C. (Metro accessible) or Montgomery County (preferably not downtown Bethesda, since it's so crowded). My wife, from Latin America, loves the Willard's atmosphere, but I wouldn't describe it as romantic (certainly not intimate). I thought of the Two Quail. 1789 could be nice (she's never been), but Metro accessible it's not. Ideas?

Tom Sietsema: Metro accessible, historic and romantic, eh? I suppose you want good food, too. Check out the Occidental Grill near the White House.

Potomac, Md.: My wife and I are going to dinner tonight before a movie at the Uptown. We're thinking of going to Spices. Your thoughts on what to order?

Tom Sietsema: In addition to the sushi at Spices, I’m a fool for its ginger salad and curry laksa, thin rice noodles and a tingling coconut milk curry served with either shrimp or chicken.

You Dictate?: Please don't tell me that you actually order for everyone at the table? I mean, you tell them what to order, but they actually speak with the waiter/waitress, right?

Tom Sietsema: Sorry, I'm typing pretty quickly here.

(Geesh, I feel like I'm back in eighth-grade English.)

Ok, I feel better now ...

Falls Church, Va.: Tom,

Are there any decent Greek restaurants in this area? I know you have raved about one in Baltimore, but we need someplace closer. I noticed one in Alexandria and one in Clarendon -- but they looked kind of cheesy. Thank you.

Tom Sietsema: My current favorite is Mykonos Grill in Rockville.

Washington, D.C.: What are your favorite neighborhood eateries to dine alone?

Tom Sietsema: Johnny's Half Shell in Dupont Circle, Jaleo in Penn Quarter and Melrose in the West End all leap to mind (the first two because they offer great counter seating).

Washington, D.C. -- Greek food: A guy I know would pick Ambrosia in Rockville for his last meal, if he was ever faced with that choice!

Tom Sietsema: Hmmmm. Let's hope he doesn't have to make that choice!

Chinatown, Washington, D.C.: Similar question to the opening chatter -- what do you think of Esquire magazine's annual "Best New Restaurants in America?" John Mariani listed Palena as one of the best (Azul in Miami was Restaurant of the Year), and listed Red Ginger as the worst. Do restaurants pay much attention to Esquire?

Tom Sietsema: I think most restaurants pay considerable attention to national press. Magazines have a very long shelf life.

I agree with Mr. Mariani on Palena (I sent him there) and Azul (mentioned in this chat, above). Keep in mind, though, that he had one bad meal at Red Ginger. Reputable local reviewers visit restaurants multiple times before setting fingers to keyboard.

Alexandria, Va.: Tom -- I had a Restaurant Week dinner at Ten Penh the other night and was disappointed. I knew you could pick from the whole range of entrees, but was surprised to learn that the only vegetarian one is steamed vegetables. It seems like they weren't even trying with that one. Why even offer a vegetarian entree if you're not intent on pleasing a diner with it? Of course, it was totally my fault that I didn't ask while making the reservation, but based on my experience, I'd never go back.

Tom Sietsema: In this day and age, I'm surprised at how many otherwise good restaurants continue to treat vegetarians as second-class citizens.

Rockville, Md.: Good morning Tom. My parents 43rd wedding anniversary is on Friday and we were thinking of getting them a gift certificate for dinner. Any suggestions? We did not want to spend an extraordinary amount of money. we are two working class kids. Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: If they're up for venturing out, Ashby Inn in Paris would make a nice gift. Closer to home, there are Andalucia (Spanish) in Bethesda and Bombay Club (Indian) in DC.

Washington, D.C.: I have telephoned three times and you have not returned my call -- is this policy? I wanted to have our neighborhood Indian Restaurant, the Bombay Cafe, included in your column. Thanks

Tom Sietsema: I keep an open phone, believe it or not, and try to return all calls. BUT ... I also receive dozens of phone messages a day and sometimes hundreds of email a week. (All this, and deadlines, too.) Can't say that I recall your message, sorry to report. Where's Bombay Cafe?

Fairfax, Va.: Tom

Do you know of a place in the area that still makes the Caesar Salad at the table when ordered?

Thanks

Tom Sietsema: Nick & Stef's makes a first-rate Caesar before your eyes, and to your exact taste.

Richmond, Va.: For the Richmond visitor:

I relocated to Richmond from NoVa a year ago and there are lots of great restaurants down here, small independents rather than chains. Millie’s is certainly one of them, a little pricy at dinner. There are several in the Fan that are really good, most places are kid-friendly but Richmond is not particularly sympathetic to non-smokers. There are quite a few good Greek restaurants as well, as an alternative to Italian.

The Grotto (Italian), White Dog (American with good beers on tap and great desserts and vegetarian specials), the Graffiti Grille (American), Davis and Main, Helen’s (Greek), are a few that I’ve enjoyed. The best Italian in Richmond is Mama Zu’s, but it’s in a bit of a dodgy neighborhood. Out in the burbs, Bottega’s is nice. Italian but with lots of parking.

Check out www.Richmond.com for a dining guide with directions and reviews.

Tom Sietsema: We thank you for sharing your finds.

Reston, Va.: I myself am a great food fan, but restrict myself to just once a week eating out where I eat just for the taste and forget the calories. I was wondering what you do for you work out, how do you strike a balance between eating anything and everything and staying fit?

Tom Sietsema: I belong to a gym and recently hired a trainer -- which is not a luxury, but a necessity, in this line of work. And unless the food is really good, I rarely finish a complete meal. You'd be surprised at how often food critics go home, hungry.

Baltimore, Md.: I will be dining at a restaurant that serves great food but really rushes the diners, as it is quite busy. I'd like to linger over the wine and tapas, but never know what to do if the restaurant obviously wants to turn the tables over quickly. Should I bow to the pressure, tell the waiter to slow down, ignore it and just tip more, or what? I feel bad if other waiters are getting three tables to my one. Thanks much.

Tom Sietsema: Let the staff know, up front, that you are in no rush and intend to enjoy your evening out. Alternatively, have dessert and coffee or after-dinner drinks in the bar, if there is one.

Vegetarian woes: I forget the chef's name, but I remember a couple of years ago when the New Yorker published a tell-all screed from a chef who had worked in several of New York's finer eateries and one of his revelations is that most kitchen staff hate, HATE, vegetarians (as well as diners who order fine cuts of beef well-done).

Tom Sietsema: I wrote about the author, Anthony Bourdain, in a Food section article last year. His book is Kitchen Confidential. And you're right about diners who request meat over-cooked.

Rockville, Md.: Tom,

Love your column and chat! Where would be a good place to grab appetizers/early dinner near National Theatre. We are meeting at 5:30 and need to be done by 7:30. I'm leary of Ten Penh since it doesn't open until 5:30 and sometimes being the first customer in means a wait while the waitstaff/kitchen get organized.

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Butterfield 9, on 14th near F St., is where you want to park yourself.

Washington, D.C.: Tom,
I guess this is sort of a etiquette question. What would you do if went out for an expensive, special occasion meal, and through no fault of the restaurant, you just don't like your meal. On our possible one and only venture to Inn at Little Washington, I simply ordered wrong. I just didn't like what I got. My husband loved what I ordered (though not enough to trade entrees with me) so I don't at all think it was the cooking. But it's a shame that I wasn't fully satisfied with my meal, simply because of my own mistake.

Tom Sietsema: I'd love to hear from some chefs regarding this tricky problem. Knowing the Inn, I bet the staff would make every effort to please you, though.

Washington, D.C.: Do you need to be a member of the Smithsonian Associates program to eat at the Castle?

Tom Sietsema: No, fortunately. The restaurant is open to the public.

NW Washington, D.C.: I don't always agree with your reviews, but The Washingtonian?? Their list of top 100 was laughable, including Tony Cheng's in Chinatown which my Chinese daughter-in-law agrees is one of the worst Chinese meals she has ever had. Somebody must be paying/giving somebody something.

On the other hand, I'm glad to discover Meiyah. Nice addition to the West End.

Tom Sietsema: These days, I prefer City Lights of China myself.

Washington, D.C.: Quick! I need to know. Is it okay to sip a cocktail through one of those little red and white striped double-barrel cocktail stirrers?

Tom Sietsema: (This must be a pal.) I hate that affectation. Guys in particular look like weenies when they do it.

Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom!

Love your chats immensely! Two things: I was really surprised to see so much negative reaction to the service at Citronelle in the Post's Entertainment Guide. My boyfriend and I celebrated our 5th anniversary there not long ago and were treated so well! We're early 20-somethings and have often felt that we're given inferior service because people assume we can't afford much or won't tip well. But the service at Citronelle made us feel like VIP's even though we're not. We even went on a Friday night -- and they were quite busy!

Second thing is a question -- where can a gal get amazing traditional French onion soup -- with plenty of broth, bread, and bubbling cheese?

Thanks a lot, Tom!

Tom Sietsema: A gal, or even a guy, could find a nice bowl of French onion soup at the aforementioned Bistro Francais.

Washington, D.C.: Corduroy. Quiet and luscious? It's a sterile, airport lounge of a place, with a jittery chef and nervous wait staff. Not quite my idea of luscious. But I suppose we aren't talking science here.

Tom Sietsema: Jittery chef? Not in my experience. True, the room is pretty plain, but it's also graciously quiet (a quality that is hard to find in a lot of restaurants). The cooking, however, makes up for any "airport lounge" feel.

Washington, D.C.: How much should the telephone confirmation for a reservation reflect on the service at a restaurant? I received a telephone call from 1789 this weekend. I was put off by the caller's annoyed tone, and it made me feel unwelcome there. My guest, visiting from New York City, said he receives only the most gracious calls from restaurants there. Should I have said something?

Tom Sietsema: 1789 doesn't have the best phone manners, I know from personal experience. It reflects poorly on the restaurant. And who can afford that in this economic environment?

(You're right about NYC this season; even the hottest destinations begin with a smile on the phone.)

Washington, D.C.: Tom, love your chats and your Q+A with your reviews. I'm a bit of a home cook and I'm interested in learning more about classic French cuisine. Can you recommend some places that I could try that present dishes that can be replicated at home?

Thanks

Tom Sietsema: Short answer, as we move past noon: Gerard's Place downtown offers cooking classes and some fine French cooking (LOVE the chef's duck confit, the best around).

That's it for today, folks. See you back next Wednesday.

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